By George MahePhotograph by Katherine Bish
Let’s just say that it’s long overdue. Clayton hasn’t seen a legitimate upscale seafood restaurant since Port St. Louis ... and it closed in 1990. Arriving on a rogue wave is Oceano (pronounced with a long “e”), laying claim to “the city’s freshest seafood.” That just might be true: Their primary source is Hawaiian day-boat fishermen, who by law must surrender their catch daily. With an assist from UPS, this bistro is snaring fish faster than you can say humuhumunukunukuapua’a (that’s triggerfish to you and me). Even more amazing is the pricing: 8 ounces of sashimi-grade tuna, offered with a choice of seven sauces, is $18. Beneath graceful domes and archways and beside pieces from Chihuly and Hessam Abrishami, frequent diners have already selected their favorite booths (incredibly, there are 14). But our advice? Attempt to secure seating on the all-season patio, where tables are so cool and so coveted, even a priest would consider fishing for an upfront $20.
44 N. Brentwood, 314-721-9400, oceanobistro.com. Hours: 11 a.m.–10 p.m. Mon-Thu, 11 a.m.–11 p.m. Fri, 2–11 p.m. Sat, 2–9 p.m. Sun, Sat & Sun brunch.
