Photographs by Katherine Bish

Yeah, best new restaurants, stunning additions to the local dining scene, wildly creative genius in the kitchen, must have dinner there immediately. Trouble is, we celebrate these places, they bask and preen. Hordes descend. And it’s St. Swithin’s Day before you can get a reservation. So keeping it in perspective: These are the Best New Restaurants in St. Louis this year—along with a Why It’s Not Perfect just to keep them from getting swelled heads and so you, dear reader, have a chance to try the places, if you haven't already, before we do this again next year

Franco

Once as rare as a lucid–Britney Spears sighting, real bistros with limited menus of excellent meals, reasonable prices and an informal atmosphere have suddenly blossomed in several St. Louis locations. Few can match the bloom of Franco, occupying a corner of a rehabbed factory at the edge of Soulard Market. It’s stylish, a clever combination of marble-top tables and sleek Cesca chairs with the original rustic brick walls and exposed beams. Every item on the menu tempts, from meaty frog legs in a dressing of shallots, garlic and curry to sweetbreads in a balsamic vinegar reduction. A cassoulet here is unparalleled, pork and sausages slow-cooked with white beans in rich fat and topped with a crusty sprinkle of breadcrumbs. A classic bistro steak is enlivened with a paper cone of crispy frites and a creamy, garlicky puddle of aioli for dipping. Mussels and clams, shrimp, squid and scallops crowd a deep bowl of fragrant herbed broth in a stew that warms to the bone. Nuggets of dill-spiked spaetzle accompany a mustard-glazed pork tenderloin. Franco gets the bistro thing almost perfectly, right down to a superb and concentrated wine list.

Why it's not perfect: Bartenders there can apparently, without cringing, serve something called a “blueberry martini.”

Vin de Set

The rooftop patio’s the most talked-about restaurant real estate since our proposed McDonald’s-atop-the-Arch idea. Inside, though, vaulted ceilings and a cool and sophisticated color scheme make for dining drama of the best sort. Crisp linens, sparkling glassware—every detail bespeaks a place where those details matter. The menu, then, is no surprise, studded with descriptions of meals irresistible and often pleasantly unique. Crêpes here, stuffed with seafood or wild mushrooms, are an innovative starter. Or go with a fragrant dollop of brie baked with roasted garlic. Short ribs braised in Burgundy, alongside mashed potatoes swirled with boursin cheese, are spectacular as a main course. So too a thick chunk of yellowfin tuna grilled and presented in a garlic–and–red-wine reduction. The bouillabaisse here is unmatched locally, a garlicky broth shimmering around chunks of fish like turbot and covina; the side of aioli is a stinging addition to the rich stew. Specials, like a crêpe wrapped around slices of duck confit or a rare yellowtail snapper cooked whole in cognac sauce, make every visit an adventure. A wine list just short of overwhelming is top-loaded with domestics and enough European classics to keep the exploring oenophile on his toes. Undoubtedly the best new restaurant in town, and one that has helped define great dining here.

Why it’s not perfect: They served us—us—a cold apple tarte Tatin. And we can carry a grudge the way the late Pavarotti carried a middle C.

Balaban’s

Whether it’s Samantha’s spouse rotation on Bewitched or New Coke, change plays poorly most of the time. When Balaban’s, once a staple of the Central West End dining scene, folded, patrons mourned. Announcements of its reopening last winter under new management and with a new chef were met with skepticism and a dire prediction: It wouldn’t be as good. They were right. It’s better. The menu’s extensive, with more than a dozen main courses and an equal number of starters. Crisp, pan-fried sweetbreads are such a delectable appetizer here, the sweet dollop of rhubarb compote on the side is superfluous. Maybe because of Bugs and all, rabbit remains one of the great underappreciated meats on the American plate. Too bad, since Balaban’s roasted saddle of Mr. Cottontail—rolled around a stuffing studded with English peas, then wrapped in slices of thick smoked bacon and served atop a mound of chewy faro pearls—is an absolutely top-notch meal. A hanger steak is lusty, topped with a drizzle of béarnaise sauce; the hand-cut frites are more than satisfactory. And the duck confit—increasingly common around here—is inspired, its big leg and chunky thigh tender, the skin just crisped to an appetizing brown. Balaban’s is unquestionably the Best New Old Restaurant in St. Louis.

Why it’s not perfect: Even for us, metric conversions can be tricky when we’re drinking wine, but we’re pretty sure the 500-milliliter carafe servings are too small for two, too big for one.

Acero

Batting cleanup for an impressive number of outstanding restaurants along Manchester in Maplewood is this unpretentious little spot. It’s old-school Italian, slowly savored. A plate of handmade salami-slice antipasti and a glass of wine aid in contemplating the next course—which should be pasta. Acero’s carbohydrates all impress. Buttons of orecchiette are tossed with cauliflower and a confetti of pancetta. Three cheeses are stuffed into huge ravioli along with a soft-boiled egg that spills its golden contents when cut. Main courses like slow-roasted pork shoulder, grilled trout or roasted snapper with a red wine–splashed ratatouille all manage to impress. Not to be missed here are the polenta courses, the thick, golden mush ladled onto marble so it cools, then topped with a continually changing array of delectables like tripe in a tomato sauce, roasted mushrooms and tender, braised oxtail. Dolci, like custard cake semifreddo and frothy gelatos, are not the only way to finish the evening here. Licorice sambuca, essence of citrus limoncello and a grape brandy grappa are all worthy, satisfying digestivos. Wines, predominantly Italian vintages, are available in 250-milliliter quartinos amenable for sampling a couple of different selections as a long and leisurely meal unfolds. The setting’s convivial, semiformal, with a pleasant patio for alfresco meals.

Why it’s not perfect: Water tumbler. Wine glass. Learn the difference.

Wapango

As annoying trends go, “fusion cooking” is right up there between Tom Cruise and that shrieking harpy on the Fox Theatre’s The Lion King commercial. It’s mostly a synonym for chefs who hope disparate cuisines they neither understand nor appreciate will somehow work combined. Wapango is a wonderful exception. South and Central American cuisines get authentic representation and work to accentuate the dishes rather than disguise an inept kitchen. And those dishes? A bundle of banana leaves is unwrapped tableside to reveal steaming roasted pork, the meat flaky, tender and ruby red with achiote. Garlic and smoky chipotles in vinegar marinate a half chicken grilled in a satisfying adobo. A Yucatan-style soup with chicken and lime and tortilla strips is authentic and delicious, and they’ve got the roasted-pork–and–ham Cuban as authentic as most of Miami’s expatriates, right down to the pickles and mayo and that hot, pressed bread. Yucca gets deserved attention here, mashed into fluffy clouds or sliced into starchy fries. Mojitos flow like the Amazon in the rainy season; other drinks, like the Green Iguana and Baja Sunset, along with the bright colors and airy, festive atmosphere, will make you think you’re someplace where the cops carry assault rifles instead of where you actually are: right beside Chesterfield Mall.

Why it’s not perfect: The scattered picket fence décor looks like a salute to tornado damage.

And for dessert …

Bissinger’s: A Chocolate Experience

Hey, chocolate and alcohol. Figure a way to get Salma Hayek into the mix and life is complete. Bissinger’s chocolate shop, which has been around for—well, Pierre Laclede liked the blackberry caramels—sort of melted and got remolded into this new place. The idea: Present chocolate delicacies richer than Oprah in a felicitous, intimate setting. Like a candy shop crossbred with a men’s club, it’s dark wood and leather upholstery along with gleaming white marble. It has all of Bissinger’s classic hallmarks: French truffles, chocolate-enrobed apricots, molasses puffs, almond toffee—and the chocolate-dipped strawberries that say summer around here like block-long lines at the Arch. The new place goes a step further, though, matching liqueurs and wine with chocolate and other desserts. A honey and raspberry chambord is poured into a chocolate cup to accompany a ganache-spritzed chocolate cheesecake. The dense sweetness of a flourless chocolate cake is intensified by a glass of dark, full-bodied Cabernet. Pairing a bubbly, acidic Chardonnay with the fat richness of a chocolate-drizzled crème brûlée is inspired. Don’t miss the sparkling drinks, carbonated waters like a fizzy Badoit or Ramlosa that accentuate the taste of chocolate as well.

Why it’s not perfect: We’re as indulgent as anyone, but referring to the kitchen head here as a “chocolate sommelier” is a tad over the top.

Too Soon to Tell

Sage

We expect good things from Chris LaRocca, former owner of Crazy Fish, and the early word on his new “urban American grill” in Soulard suggests that he’s not about to disappoint us. The fact that he eschews fussy entrée names in favor of to-the-point descriptions proves that the focus here is on the food, and it shows in a menu that ranges from a tender Tuscan pork chop to a seafood capellini brimming with shrimp, blue crab and clams. The icing on the cake, so to speak? A lineup of just-the-right-size desserts served in shot glasses. Go on—have two ... or three.

1031 Lynch, 314-256-1203

Oceano

Maybe it’s just that Clayton—and the rest of St. Louis, for that matter—has gone through such a seafood drought as of late, but Oceano feels like a blessed relief. Situated in the former home of the Tex-Mex spot Tejas, this distinctly airier and lighter incarnation of the space is plenty inviting—just try to get a seat on the all-seasons patio—but the ambiance isn’t what you’ll tell your friends about. The fish, as it should be, is the star. Selection, presentation and execution are all top-notch—an appetizer of paper-thin slices of blackened ahi tuna, complemented by a cool cucumber pickled ginger salad, is a must-try—so much so that you’ll almost feel like you’re dining on the coast ... almost.

44 N. Brentwood, 314-721-9400, oceanbistro.com

Bistro Alexander

It can be easy to get overlooked in the dining Thunderdome that is downtown Clayton, but if this little bistro in Limoncello’s former digs keeps up the pace, it might just carve out a distinct niche of its own. If there’s one influence to point to in the cuisine, it’s French, but chef Matt Rolens, formerly of the St. Louis Country Club and Café Balaban, touches a handful of culinary bases. Should you try the grilled sea scallop salad or the herb-seared tuna? We’re not going to make that decision for you, but we will say this: Finish the night with the upside-down root
beer float.

7927 Forsyth, 314-725-9999

Limoncello

OK, as of this writing, the relocated Limoncello hasn’t opened yet, but we’re still keeping our eye on the space in Lafayette Square where the Buzzetta family is setting up shop. Owner and chef Paul (dad Benedetto will once again be in the kitchen) tells us that the menu won’t change significantly from the Sicilian classics featured at the Clayton location, but that we can expect a few new items. (He cryptically mentioned something about incorporating anchovies and chilis into his pasta.) But at any rate, we’ve got another reason to make the trip to Mississippi ...
Avenue, that is.

1016 Mississippi, no phone yet

~scape

We might be jumping the gun on this one—it’ll only have been open for a few weeks by the time you read this—but with mega-restaurateur Larry Levy pulling the strings, ~scape is a safe bet. (See our Q&A with Levy in the print edition!) A much-needed addition to Maryland Plaza—it’ll be the first full-scale restaurant to reside there in, well, forever—it promises the intimacy of a true bistro with the airiness (outside, at least) of a European café. Honestly, though, do we need to say more than the words “Larry” and “Levy”?

48 Maryland Plaza, 314-361-7227